Runway Report: Paris Menswear Fashion Week--John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012--Photos + Video

Retro Elegant Homme:

30's Gangster Chic: John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

As we all know, Bill Gaytten--former "Right Hand Guy" for fallen designer John Galliano--is at the helm of all things formerly touched by "the Man" himself. He designs Dior Pret-a-Porter and Christian Dior Haute Couture, as well as all the Galliano lines.

Bill Gaytten, John Galliano Creative Director/Designer

This past week, during Paris Menswear Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012/2013, Gaytten unveiled the latest for John Galliano Men. After looking at the runway photos and video, it was simply BEAUTIFUL! The theme was 1930's and the elegant, chic man of that decade. The show went through all the archetypes of a 30's Man--from the UBER Gangsters in patent leather trench coats and side-styled fedoras, to...

Newsboy Love: John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Newspaper boys in newsboy caps (of course!) and shearling-lined coats. Outerwear--including jackets and blazers were belted or with their own built-in waistband--emphasizing the teeny-tiny waist of yesteryear (and of the beautiful male models!).

Slicked: John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Pants were either wide and lose or skinny/fitted. Big, metalized, patent-leather shoes and very, very slicked parted hair, finished off the total look. I almost thought I was looking at old photos of my Dad and my Uncle from when they were in their teens.

Football Goes Equestrian: John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

The look was very Charles Lindbergh meets 1930's Football Hero meets Hollywood Star. There was luxurious fur shawl collars accenting semi-double breasted wool tweed coats, jodhpurs and even a vintage football helmet...or two.

Pea Boys: John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

That's not to say that there was still a lot for the modern 2012 fashion-savvy man (with lots of money) to look at and incorporate into their wardrobe. Those aforementioned coats were GORGEOUS, the wide-legged "Clark Cable" pants were fabulously tailored and yes, I would even think about buying a riding pant--well, if I was 22 and had a 28" waist!

Violet Nights: John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

For evening, there were deep purples, lurex, metallic's and an overall 1930's Dandy look that somehow looked relevant and oh-so-elegant--in 2012. At least to me.

Click Below for the complete Video of John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013:

Runway Report: Paris Menswear Fashion Week Spring 2012: John Galliano

Galliano Without Galliano...

Swashbuckling Boys: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

Last week, The Fashion House of John Galliano showed the first Menswear Collection done without the name behind the brand. Galliano, in fact, was in court--in Paris--around the same time trying to give his version of what happened that fateful night and well, give his excuses for why he said the terrible things he said. In emotional testimony, Galliano blamed pressures of a pitiless industry for pushing him off the brink and into prescription drugs and alcohol addictions.

But the House that is owned by Dior President and CEO Sydney Toledano wanted none of that. Instead, the focus was on the collection designed by Galliano longtime collaborator Bill Gaytten, who has been with the company for over 20 years and in fact is still part of the Dior Design Team. Here's the ironic part of the Galliano Menswear Spring 2012 Collection: A lot of it looked as if it was an Ode to Galliano himself; one entire section seemed very "Galliano as The Muse": The Dandy hats with feathers, the open vests under bare torsos, the swashbuckling stylings, all of it. In fact, at the end, it was as if most of the Models were serious John Galliano doppelgangers--apologetically.

There were 4 distinct categories of the show: The John Galliano Bohemian Swashbuckler, The Effeminate School Boy, The Hipster in Silk PJ's and The Toreador Rocker Bad Boy.

Glee Chic: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

This section of the "Geek-Chic School Boys" was great. I loved the color combination (not a surprise) and the soft pastels. Great ties as well. It was VERY "Harry Potter" meets "Glee".

Hipsters in PJ's: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

This was the weakest section to me. It was almost like they decided "Hey, we need to sell some John Galliano Underwear to keep this House in the black, so send some guys down the runway in their skivvies". Some look almost saggy, like they'd been washed one too many times. But I guess, after seeing those silk pajama pants at D&G, it's now officially a "Menswear Spring 2012" Trend. Boys: Go get some silk printed pajama pants ASAP!

Bullfighter Rock-On: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

To me this was the strongest section. I loved the mix of Toreador chic and cool Rocker Boy. Skinny pants, pointed shoes, strong boxy jackets, lots of Toreador-like embellishments. I felt the new designer's voice was most apparent here and since this was the close of the show maybe it was to demonstrate the "new" House of John Galliano...without Galliano.

Click Below for the Full Runway Video of John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012:

Menswear Runway Fashion Show Video--John Galliano Fall 09/10

Paris Menswear Fashion Week--Galliano's Flight of Dandy Fantasy

As is tradition, Menswear Designers show their collections to the world in Milan and Paris right before Haute Couture Fashion Week. And of course, this season was no exception. One of the highlights I wanted to show you was John Galliano's collection. It was a decadent flight into his vision for what men should be wearing come next Fall/Winter: Imagine the mythical "Pan"--Half-man half-goat then throw in some Colonial Dandies in 18th-century decadence (and 21st-century micro-mini underwear), add a dash of "Slumdog Millionaire"/Bollywood music and throw in 20,000 candles and an acre of crystal shards and glitter....and well, you've got yourself a very entertaining vision only Galliano's mind could conjure up. And some actually very wearable shearlings, vests and fierce jackets (oh, I swear I wasn't going to say FIERCE!)
Click BELOW for John Galliano Fall 09/10 for Men runway videos